The Secret to Consistent Gouge Grinds: The 23° Rule
If you’ve ever looked at your bowl gouge and wondered why the wings look “off,” or why your sharpening results change every time you touch the grinder, you aren’t alone.
After our recent video on reprofiling, the number one question we received was: “Where do I set the leg on my Vari-Grind jig?” Some people say notch two, others say notch three. The truth? Those notches are inconsistent. In this guide, we’re going to look at why the leg angle matters, how to set it precisely to 23 degrees, and what happens to your steel when you get it wrong.
The Problem with “Notches”
Many turners rely on the stamped notches on their grinding jigs. However, depending on when your jig was manufactured or how it was welded, “Notch 3” on my jig might be “Notch 2.5” on yours.
To get a truly repeatable, consistent grind that doesn’t eat away your expensive steel, you need a fixed reference point. At Craft Supplies USA, we recommend a 23-degree leg angle.
How to Set the 23° Angle Perfectly
The easiest way to bypass the guesswork is to use our 1:1 scale printout.
- Loosen the leg, keeping it just snug enough to move with a little resistance.
- Insert any gouge. Don’t worry about the distance of the protrusion; it’s just there for registration.
- Place the jig directly on the paper and align the center line of the leg with the 23-degree mark.
- Use a crescent wrench to lock it down. Finger-tight isn’t enough—you don’t want the leg collapsing while you’re mid-grind.
Pro Tip: Always measure from the center line of the leg in relationship to the bottom of the gouge. This ensures the angle is the same whether you’re sharpening a tiny spindle gouge or a massive bowl gouge.
The Experiment: What Happens When You Change the Leg Angle?
To save you from wasting your own steel, Mike ran an experiment. Keeping the V-arm (50° Raptor) and the tool protrusion (2”) constant, he adjusted only the leg angle. Here is what happened:
| Leg Setting | Nose Angle Result | Wing Profile |
|---|---|---|
| 23° (Standard) | 50° | “Jack of all trades” – Symmetrical, modified fingernail. |
| Notch 5 | 60° | Steeper & Aggressive – 10° difference in the bevel. |
| Noth 7 | 77° | Too Blunt – Wings are drawn back, but the nose is far too steep to cut efficiently. |
The 35° Raptor Swap
We also tried setting the leg to a steep Setting 7 but moving the V-arm to a 35° Raptor. While this brought the nose angle back to a usable range, the wings became nearly vertical. These “straight-up” wings are incredibly aggressive and prone to chipping or breaking because the steel is so thin at the edge.
The “Sweet Spot”
Through our classes and years of turning, we’ve found that the 23-degree leg angle is the sweet spot. When used with a 50-degree Raptor and a 2-inch protrusion, you get a “modified fingernail” grind.
It’s not an Ellsworth or a true Irish grind—it’s a versatile profile that excels at both roughing and hollowing. Most importantly, it’s repeatable.
Final Safety Checklist
Before you head to the grinder to reprofile your tools, remember:
- If you’re using a round bar, grind a small flat spot for the jig’s set-screw. This prevents the tool from rotating dangerously during sharpening.
- Keep a cup of water handy. Keep the steel cool to the touch.
- Ensure your stone is flat across the face using a diamond dresser; a “wallow” in your wheel will ruin your bevel angle.
Ready to get started? Download our Leg Angle Setup Template and make sure your jig is locked in for your next project.
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